Travelling in Turkey

Hello all ... it seems like I have been in Turkey for quite a while now and loving every single moment ... the sights and the sounds and the tastes. The people continue to be absolutely kind and could not be warmer or friendlier ... from Marmaris on the Aegean Sea Wally and I travelled up to Izmir and surroundings. We rented a car,I did not drive as I am such a chicken ... the roads, the mountains which seem never ending and the chances they all take on the roads, not for me. Anyway having a car, much like in Greece, allowed us to get off the beaten track, go for some hot baths and massages one day, walk on the beach another (it was totally empty and pretty rough and to be honest, getting colder and colder every day). We had the car for a week so there were adventures in hotels, people we met ... travellers and hosts ... archeological sights, a wonderful remote lake called Lake Bafa where we pretty much slept and ate with the animals and families as there were very few tourists there. Then we decided to fly to a well known tourist area in Turkey, Cappadochia, a fairy tale wonderland where we hiked and ooed and awed for 5 days. Unfortunately I got food poisoning ... the joys of travelling and eating in restaurants, some rather questionable at best ... and was flat out for nearly 2 days. But Wally made some new friends, Aussies who entertained him for those days. Then we were back onward and upward, literally, today and flew to Istanbul. Today has been spent orienting ourselves to the city, the weather is cooler, much cooler now and I am in jeans, hiking boots, all my warm things including sweat shirt and fleece, which I am glad I have! I wondered why I carted these things around all summer and early fall, now I know. So far Istanbul looks magical, like all of Turkey with the sights, the bazaars and the people. Just stocked up on bottled water and chocolate baclava! More news soon, planning to see Blue Mosque and Aghia Sophia tomorrow and of course, the mighty shopping. How to choose what to buy?

On the road in Turkey

Arrived here a week or so ago - spent some time in Marmaris just getting our bearings after the 10 hour ferry from Rhodes - found a lovely 4 star hotel which was pretty much empty - the Turkish people have been absolutely wonderful to us - nothıng but helpful and kınd. Perhaps partly because this ıs off season they have the time to spend talking with us. After Marmaris we travelled by bus to Izmir where we stayed at a very small and rather dodgy hotel near the centre of town. It was wild and crazy in that part of town - memories of Pakistan. Now we have found an absolutely beautiful part of Turkey called Cesme - right on the coast wıth small towns and villages - sleepy and quiet and quite reasonably priced. Today we are drıvıng further south to an archeological site and staying overnite in a little mountain town known for their fruit wines. The last week has been unusually rainy but now there is sun and mid 20 temps. I absolutely love Turkey so far - almost as much as Greece - excuse the poor typing - the Turkish keyboard is very different and I make lots of mistakes - more news soon. Love to all.

Sadly, leaving Crete for Rhodes

Well, two days ago we left Crete/Kriti, my home for the last 3 months, I feel part of my soul is in Greece, especially Crete. So many extraordinary events over the last 3 months ... working hard, swimming, yoga, meeting so many wonderful people, the air and the sea and the food of Crete, very special. After a couple of weeks spent at the beach side community of Palleahora on a remote southern coast of Crete, Wally and I travelled to the north of the island, Chania and then Heraklion to hop a supposedly high speed ferry to Rhodes. We arrived at the ferry at 5.00 am and stood around til 7.00 am in the dark with other passengers awaiting the ferry which finally turned up closer to 7.30. It was a windy crossing, stopping at two lovely little islands on the way, we arrived in Rhodes approximately 4 hours late, have been exploring this beautiful walled, UNESCO site, town for the last two days, how beautiful it is. I am so grateful to be here, the rain and the humidity and all, I love it. Just had a latte and gyro in a little cafe, we are heading back to our hotel, the 7 Palms, for a rest and out for the evening, probably more exploring in the old walled city tonite. I am so tempted by the jewellery here, may break down and purchase a little memento of my journey. We have been looking at possible long stays on Crete, perhaps next winter, it is quiet and untouristy in the winter, we will see. Off to Turkey/Marmaris tomorrow evening by high speed catamaran. It is so great to be near/on the water, the history, the people and the food, always the wondeful healthy Med'n food! More news soon .... B.xxx

My retreat in Astrikas, Crete

Back in Chania now after a lovely week in the hills of northwest Crete ... what a gorgeous isolated little village for a yoga retreat ... the instructor from Scotland/London was Amy ... a super knowledgeable, compassionate teacher who has been instructing for many years and lead the six of us in a series of wonderful classes, approximately 3 hours each day, morning and evening. We had our meals in a nearby taverna under a beautiful magnolia tree ... cooked by the lovely owner of the taverna with fresh, organic, local ingredients. The surrounding countryside was laden with olive groves, the smell was often overwhelming ... this has been an extremely dry summer and the olive trees are heavy with fruit demanding to be picked, which they will be by migrant workers in mid-October.

I was so excited at the retreat because when I arrived at the hotel I was led to my own room with a large balcony overlooking the mountains and hills spotted with farms and olive groves, the sounds were only of animals ... roosters, sheep, birds ... often pretty noisy. We visited various villages close by, walking up and down the lovely hills, the weather is wonderful, hot during the day and cooler at nite, perfect for travel. We practised yoga in an outdoor studio in the morning and the late afternoon, we also had a pool to sunbathe and swim during the day, a perfect time was had by all!

Now back to Chania, awaiting Wally's arrival tomorrow nite, then we begin our travels together, I have found a little studio apartment for us in old town Chania. More news to follow ...

Leaving Aghios Pavlos and Yoga Plus

This morning was hectic, left Yoga Plus early (after quite a few hugs and kisses from the owners of the centre, Pierre and Radha and my new friends here including the two cooks I worked with over the last 8 weeks)... 0830 for Spili by taxi. Had a lovely evening out last nite with five new friends ... both guests and coworkers ... it was a perfect nearly full moon nite, we sat way up on the hill at a taverna overlooking the rocky bay of Aghios Pavlos eating flavourful Greek vegetarian food. What a memorable nite, it was quickly followed by our favourite Baklava, a sweet, honey laden dessert. This morning came far too early, the taxi ride through the mountains and a lovely cafe au lait at a small outdoor (of course, everything is here as it is still very hot, around 30-35 degrees C during the day) ... then the bus to the north coast, Rethymno and on to Chania, arriving midday. I had some referrals for hotels and am staying in the old city ... traces of Turkish and Venetian pasts ... in a little hotel owned by Nelli. During a visit to a small cafe down the lane from my hotel, I met a Greek older man who has lived/worked in Canada, has offered to help me find an apartment for the week when Wally and I are here from the 28th to early October ... should be interesting. It's lovely here, I am enjoying the husstle and busstle ... for how long??? When will I yearn for the quiet of the beach and hidden southern coves?

The winds of change

Hello all, it has been a while, today is my day off, planning to leave here next week for a one week retreat in the northwest of Crete. Learned about it at a perfect time as I had decided I was ready to leave this beautiful Aghios Pavlos bay with its crystal clear waters, dynamic yoga and physically demanding work, to see more of Crete. Wally will join me at the end of the week and we will begin our travels together ... first to see more of Crete, especially the south and west, then to Rhodes and Turkey and up to the Ukraine.

It has been a great two month experience here, I have learned a ton MORE about myself, my yoga practice has been strengthened greatly, now doing self practice each morning, as well as having had a major shift in my confidence around the preparation of good, hearty vegetarian cooking. It is all good and I am now ready to move on.

The weather is lovely now, hot during the day, we are still swimming each day and sunbathing ... but cooler at nite and I have a blanket at the ready but we sleep in our three bed room that I share with two lovely Scottish lasses, open each nite to allow for fresh air and sound of the waves ... I love it here but it is starting to become a little claustrophobic and I am ready to begin my travels again.

More news after my week long retreat in west Crete ... see the website for Free Spirit holidays in the UK for more info.

Life in the quiet lane at Yoga Plus

Well things have definitely settled down now that September is here ... fewer guests, less work, today is my day off, practised challenging Ashtanga yoga at 6.30 for 1.5 hours, I'm getting stronger and stronger! And I need to be ... life in the kitchen of a retreat centre is demanding to say the least ... all that chopping, standing on ceramic floors ... lifting/carrying/washing/shelving large pots ... and then the multi tasking of ensuring everything is out by lunch or dinner time. The food is wonderful, all fresh and local from the Island of Crete ... vegetables are plentiful as is the fruit selection ... we make a wide variety of gain/vegetable/bean salads as well as lovely thick, rich soups, desserts (cakes of all types, puddings with chocolate sauces, flapjacks (must be a British or Scottish thing because it's more like a granola bar to me) ... some favourites are the millet salads mixed with dill and other fresh herbs, pizzas with Greek feta cheese and potato or beets ... mmmmm ... we pretty much live outside here ... it is still pretty hot ... around 25 Degrees Celsius, cooler at night. Still swimming every day and walking ... as well as having massages from our resident masseuse, Lily. Guests are much more laid back and commited to their yoga practises this time of year, the summer holidaymakers and families have returned home.

All in all, much more relaxed, we can breathe a little more and enjoy the lovely scenary, sunsets are magnificent, walking is much more pleasant ....more to follow.

B.xxx